Can I see too?

Thanks to Ali, an Omani colleague, last Thursday, with friends & colleagues, I went to the largest & most important camel races in Oman, on an invite from the host- a very important Sheikh, one of the Emirati rulers. Until 6 am Thursday morning we were unsure if we could go due to over 24 hours of rain here in Muscat, (lack of drainage and flooding as water washes down from the mountains causes problems driving around), but on hearing the races were definitely on, we set off. An hour up the road the clouds lifted and we spotted blue skies.

It turns out that Ali is a very important man, so had reserved us seats in the front row of the grandstand (see celebrity post). The races were exciting, although due to the shape of the track we watched the majority on the large screen and only saw the final 2 km as they finished in front of us. For me, the last 3 races were the most exhilarating. They involved lots of camels ridden by men, rather than the normal young jockeys. I left the stand area to watch with the uninvited leaning/standing on the railing by the finishing line. Due to the nature of these races, there were lots of camels arriving at the finish line at great speed altogether, chased swiftly by the lads whose job it was to catch them and bring them to a halt.

When the races finished, it was off to the Sheikh's farm for lunch. Unfortunately, due to the traffic we didn't get to shake hands with the Sheikh, but still had the experience of being waved in through the crowds at the gate, feeling like minor royalty! The whole lunch was a grand affair underneath tents in the garden, and involved copious amounts of food. More rice & goat. We even got some camel to try; I hope it wasn't one of the losers. After the Sheikh left with his entourage, the gates were opened so anyone could enter and eat. I can't imagine the Queen doing that at Buckingham Palace.

From the Sheikh's we were invited back to Ali's house for coffee, and sat in a huge Majlis (meeting space) with some of his family for a short time before Ali had to join the Sheikh at a nearby village, and we headed back to wet, cloudy Muscat. It was an awesome day and I hope it is the beginning of a wonderful year! Sx

I'm a celebrity! In the paper again!

In the Arab press this time. AlWatan 18 January 2008. This was taken at the Saham camel races last weekend. A report on the day is following soon...

Worst movie watched this year...

...ok I know it's only 8th Jan, but I watched a movie on pay-for-view yesterday, which was truly awful. The gangster movie Idlewide (2005), what a waste of money! Can't tell you how it ended as I turned it off after the 1st hour. If you disagree, please leave a comment (sign as anonymous then you don't have to join google).

However, at the other end of the spectrum I would thoroughly recommend the gothic suspense novel The Thirteenth Tale by Diane Setterfield (paperback ed 2007). I couldn't put it down until I finished it as there were so many twists and turns in the plot. Read it if you can!

New Year's Eve 2007

After not getting a visa to visit Iran over this Christmas period, I ended up staying here in Muscat for Christmas, then on the spur of the moment booked a trip to Bahrain. After all I won't be in the Gulf region forever, so I may as well see what's around here.

My first Bahraini purchase, after checking-in to my hotel, wasn't gold or pearls, both of which Bahrain is famous for, but was a pair of woolly gloves! Cold ? Not by UK standards, but I left 25⁰c, to arrive at 18 with a cold, cold wind - and it got colder as the sun set. Brrr.

It was great to be in a city that you can walk around, unlike Muscat which is NOT pedestrian friendly, and walked several kilometres over the 4 days I was there. Thursday afternoon was spent wandering around the souq. Friday afternoon, I walked over the causeway from Manama to the nearby town of Muharraq; wandering around the old capital and visiting an old Bahraini house, which was fascinating. Finally, yesterday I walked back to my hotel from the Grand mosque via a very cool restaurant where I had lunch, past the palace, through some seedy residential areas, and made a final stop in the Radisson for tea and cheesecake. Yum :-)

Saturday, I had taken the birthday cards that I'd received to open before breakfast, and received several texts throughout the day, which made me feel special. Thanks guys. After breakfast, I met with a private guide, a very nice Bahraini woman, and headed inland (although there's not really that far to go). I saw all the major archaeological and heritage sites, including the UNESCO listed Qal'at al-Bahrain (Bahrain fort). As with all tours I got mildly hijacked with a visit to a blind-basket weaver - as it was my birthday I bought myself a reed mat- and a pottery where I didn't buy anything.

Finally, yesterday I visited the Al-Fateh Grand Mosque. It's incredible as they give guided tours to non-Muslims, and was my first time in an Abaya and scarf... The abaya was a bit long and I nearly tripped over it several times. Oops. How do these women glide so effortlessly? Or is it just me who's a klutz? Our guide was terrifically knowledgeable, and had a fantastic voice; he sang the call for prayer and gave a translation. I've discovered that when I use the video part of my digital camera, I shouldn't turn the camera. I have a video of the guide chanting, levitating.

So now I'm back in Muscat, but you can check out the Bahrain pics on flickr in a few days time.
I'm looking forward to the year ahead, and the new challenges it will bring.

I wish you all a happy and prosperous New Year. Sx

A new era of chronicles...

After years of boring friends and family with group emails here is the new improved pownall chronicles. Enjoy.