Another year over - farewell 2010.

Falcon © Sue Pownall

Wow I'm not sure about the last month, but I'm looking forward to the new one in this new year of 2011. December started on a high, but seemed to have finished in a whimper. Whilst I like Doha I am finding it's a place where I am perpetually tired and feeling not 100%. Furthermore, I spend too much time in can't-be-bothered mode, even little things like going out for milk is too much. My only motivating force is my art, but sometimes even getting off the sofa to pick up a sketchbook doesn't happen either. 

Jude & Lola on Shatti beach at sunset, Oman © Sue Pownall

Anyway, I started the month with a visit to Muscat, Oman for the exhibition I mentioned in my last post. I stayed with some old friends and their children, who I have missed a lot in the last year, so it was good to catch up. I also got to meet a few of my other friends too, although not as many as I would have liked nor for as long. The exhibition event was a success for the organisers and is important for me as being my first show. I hope there are more to come.

Al Shaqab Stud horseman © Sue Pownall

Celebrating National Day

The 18th December was National Day here in Qatar and marked the end of a week of celebrations. On Friday 17th I got to see camel dressage as the riders took them through a course, falcons, selouki dog races, and beautiful Arabian horses. Then the next day, I joined the masses in the streets where the city had a buzz, a vibrancy, that was contagious. I walked along the Corniche where the military parade had taken place ( I missed the soldiers on camels unfortunately), amongst people of all nationalities dressed in the Qatari burgundy and white and/or waving flags. In the streets people had hung flags on their cars, added transfers and decorated them, then were driving around tooting and waving at people. Benign nationalism like this is fabulous.

How do they see to drive?

Two other notable events of the month were my friend's 30th birthday, celebrated on the 23rd, although her birthday is Christmas eve, at a restaurant on the Pearl - Qatar's artificial island. This was a lovely evening where my friend got thoroughly and deservedly spoilt which included waiters singing Happy Birthday to her when the cake was brought out. Finally, I spent Christmas Day with colleagues for lunch and silly games next door, followed by drinks with others colleagues further down the hall. Fortunately, Christmas Day fell on a weekend, but it was back to work again on Boxing Day.

By the waterside at the Pearl, Doha.

Happy 2011, may it bring you peace & happiness.

A secret

...I'm exhibiting in Muscat on the 6th and 7th December, that's in one week, and it's my first ever! Full details are over on my other blog here.

Masalama Oman

I was watching a silly movie the other week; having only free-to-view channels in the Middle East limits what you watch. The main character said this "Beginnings are scary, endings are usually sad, but it's what happens in the middle that's important." This seemed appropriate to me now as I leave Oman and say goodbye to friends, colleagues, and acquaintances, and for that it is a sad time. However, with over four years in Oman I have many good memories. Here is a small selection of my friends and family highlights, in the order I thought of them...

Thank you all for making my time here in Oman fantastic, it is with some sadness that I leave, but you have all filled it with great memories.

Gratitude Friday: 7

Something which is good for the soul and for chasing away sadness is laughter, so that is what I am thankful for today. On Wednesday, I went to Muscat Comedy Club's Craic Attack, where 2 Irish comedians performed. First up was Colm McDonnell who had us giggling especially with the descriptions of Bumper cars, which took many of us back to our youth. Then, after the interval, Joe Rooney came on and he was very good. My friend was crying with laughter as he recognised himself in many of the comic situations Rooney described. By the end of the evening my face ached from having laughed so much and I left with a big smile on my face.

Thanks Diana at Creative Structures for the idea of Gratitude Friday.

Please pop over and see Lisa's blog, Travel Dreams & Moonbeams, today, it's always a good read, but this week's article on souvenir bling is excellent. Thanks Lisa for asking me to contribute.

Gratitude Friday: 6

This is easy this week. Thanks for the ability and opportunity to paddle in the warm Arabian sea, along an almost deserted beach, with cooling breeze in the this quiet capital city, which I did on Wednesday. Another good memory stored for when I leave Oman.

I'm also grateful for the drop in temperature, which enabled me to do a sketch of this idyllic scene from beneath the palm trees. The results are here.

Doubts

The decision has been made, so why am I suddenly doubting myself? I've missed Europe for a long time now, the chance to walk, the cultural opportunities etc. I hate working here, the work ethics in the colleges both of management and students is appalling, and it takes up a large part of my life.

Earlier this evening I was reading  Miss Expatria 's latest post Get ready, get inspired, and go!  all about just going for your dreams, I wrote a comment to her:

I have doubts about the next step. I’ve been an expat for almost 9 years. ... the next country is undecided. The next country is not the scary part, that I am leaving is. I thought it was the right time, but I’ve realised how much I have here and how many friends- BIG positives, but hate the work situation here. I work to live, so just because I don’t like the work is it reason to give up so much?… First steps for the next stage of my life, should they be leaving?

This was the first time I really expressed these doubts, maybe it's partly because Ramadan has been sociable and I have seen how many friends I have here. Also, I joined Oman Salsa Group before I went to Lebanon, and they are a great bunch of people. The dance classes are fun, everyone talks to each other, everyone is invited to everything, and everyone is welcome. Is the need to fit in so great that it's the reason I now have these doubts? I am not a beach/camping on the weekend person, which sometimes has made weekends long, but the dancing group- I can't wait for the next class or event. On top of that I have rediscovered art, and found that with the miracle of internet (see my last post) I don't need to be in Europe to get inspiration and share my work.

I still can't walk about (Muscat is NOT pedestrian friendly, even when it's cooler), pop in an art gallery, go to the theatre, my parents are still a day's travel away, and the other things I miss in Europe. Back there I have not yet secured a job, but there are always teaching vacancies in January. Plus two recruiters want to see me when I am next in UK, so working really is not a problem. I have narrowed down my choices of country so that is also not a problem... eeney, meeney, mineey, Go! Or should I stay?

Ramadan Ramblings

Ramadan is drawing to a close, people are discussing how much time off we will get for the Eid break, and we are all looking forward to the bars & coffee shops reopening.

As with other years, I have found Ramadan to be a very sociable period, although it has been difficult not to pop to Darcy's or Costas for a quick cuppa and catch up during the day. I have been to at least one party each weekend, and this forthcoming one is no exception as I'm off to help Eternally Distracted celebrate her birthday. I had a house party last weekend, unfortunately, due to the high humidity we've been having, it had to be moved from my rooftop to the lounge, but I certainly enjoyed it. During the same weekend I went to two barbies, so it was back to work on Saturday for a rest. A big positive of Ramadan parties is that you catch up with people you haven't seen in ages as there are limited places for people to go - a friend's house or a friend's house. Of course, most of us go to at least one Iftar meal at a local restaurant, these are the meals which Muslims traditionally break their fast with, after the dates & yoghurt. I went to one the first week at a new Lebanese restaurant and my friends & I ate so much we rolled out afterwards.

Apart from eating and drinking, I have been dancing, as the Oman Salsa Group has continued to meet for its Sunday classes, although the weekly social evening has been cancelled due to the bar being shut. I have done classes randomly before, Peru, Spain, even Italy this summer, but never in a regular weekly class. The instructors are all very helpful and nice, as are everyone who goes. It is a nice mix of Omanis, Indians, & Europeans. I am looking forward to the Eid party next week as it will be an opportunity to just dance salsa without the concentration of getting everything right - last Sunday I just could not get my turns right. Maybe next class?

Finally, over the last few weeks I have made the decision to leave Oman, and will be permanently back in Europe by Christmas. It is the right thing for me now, afterall I've been here four years, and I miss European culture and I want to be able to walk - at the moment I use the car to go to the shop across the road, as Muscat is not pedestrian friendly, nor is the weather. Oman IS a lovely country, and I will leave with only good memeories of my time here, just don't ask me about teaching in the colleges.

Summer arrives in Oman

I took this pic last Thursday morning at 9.30 as I drove past Mutrah souk. 50c in the sun!!!! I think this will be my last summer here in the middle east as I'm finding it toooooo hot this year. I know last May was the same, but with all that has happened this year I think it's time to head back to Europe.

Muscat musings

Wow it's been ages since I last wrote, I have no idea where the time has gone. So here's a quick update of what's been going on, if I can remember...

I went to UK for Easter week as my new college had a holiday. It was a relief to see dad so well, with little after effects of the strokes. He is so lucky. He told me by phone yesterday that he know longer needs to see the consultant, so it really is good news. It was nice being back in the UK and seeing the spring flowers and to experience nice spring weather, complete with showers. I spent most of the week doing nothing, I think as a result of the stressful 3 months preceding it. However, I did see Carole, who I miss a lot, and is always the first person I catch up with.

Returning from UK I was expecting to have a firm offer for a training job here in Muscat, I was supposed to receive details by 15th. But despite calling, sending emails and sms the company never got back to me... not even after I spoke to the GM who said he was in a meeting and would call me back, but never called. How rude is that? If they had decided not to recruit anyone, or not to recruit me, that would've been fine as long as they had told me. Ok rant over.

What else? Went to a conference with my colleagues on EFL teaching, which was very inspiring. Unfortunately not to teach, but to start studying again myself as I got several ideas for my PhD topic, however as I have a mortgage and renovations to do to flat I guess I can't afford it. Although maybe I could do a diploma or something?

I've done a few cultural things including 2 exhibitions currently running here in Muscat, however was unable to see a touring exhibition from Dubai that included a Picasso as it was only on for 2 days mid-week and I couldn't get there due to work. Yesterday, I saw the exhibition I:Woman and a friend of mine, Ahmed al-Shukaili, had some of his photos exhibited. Some friends and I went to the newly renovated Al Bustan Palace to listen to the Royal Oman Symphony Orchestra play a Spanish inspired musical programme. The orchestra has improved a great deal, and it was a real pleasure to hear them. Afterwards we went to the beach bar to chill out and chat under in th moonlight.

Finally, I stopped drinking before flying to UK as I've been feeling so lousy (non-specific blahness) to see if my health improved. After four weeks abstinence from alcohol, I wasn't feeling any better so I shared a bottle of very nice Prosecco with good friends, had a nice meal and helped a friend celebrate her completion of her master's. Then, I felt better! As another friend had suggested, it's the first drink which makes you feel healthier :D

Missing moments

It's been a strange year so far, and I've realised I posted about the flat without mentioning the month preceding it... Of course I've also got to add the last couple of weeks too.

To start at the end, I went to UK for a couple of days stopover with my parents. Arriving late it was not until the next morning that I found out that my dad had suffered not one but two mini-strokes in the last few weeks. That signalled the start of the longest week I have had in a long time. The following evening he had another mini-stroke and so Saturday saw dad and I at the walkin clinic, then it was upto Colchester General for the afternoon. There was talk of him being admitted, which he didn't want, but after a long day I took him home. big mistake. Just 10mins into the footie the next day I had to call 999 I followed the ambulance in the car and it was only after I couldn't get parked and then locate dad that I got scared and the emotions escaped. Naturally dad was admitted and later that eve I left, reluctantly, to go and try and calm mum. He seemed ok when mum & I went to visit him the next day, complaining of missing his tea as he was taken for a scan, but then the following day... Had to keep optimistic for mum, but was very worried as dad had seemed confused, ill, & so old. However that was the low point and by Thurs we were waiting for the ok for him to be released. I flew back to Oman, with doubts & guilt, on Saturday and a few days later he returned home. Still feel I should have stayed longer: what a horrible feeling guilt is!

Anyway onto happier things! December started with mum's visit here in Oman. She arrived on Thursday morning off a night flight and by the eve was at the St Andrew's Ball, hosted by the Caledonian Society Oman. She had a few turns on the dance floor, as did J & I. my dress was a casualty of a fast dance as the shoestring strap snapped oops. As it was Eid, I didn't work most of her visit and got to do several day trips out, although not to the beach due to the nasty red tide, which was lingering on Muscat's shoreline. One day was spent up near Sohar at an Omani colleague's house participating in traditional Eid feast. I hadn't realised just how important our host was until he took us to his village and the whole village turned out to shake his hand and greet him. From this very Omani traditional festival later in the week we celebrated Christmas by going to a Christmas Carol concert by the Muscat Singers. It was lovely to have mum out here.

Just 5 days later I was on a plane myself heading to Durban with J, picking his daughters up on route in Abu Dhabi, for 3 1/2 weeks. It was a different holiday as I very much felt an outsider at this family gathering, not because they were not welcoming, far from it, but because many of them hadn't seen each other for such a long time. J made an effort for us to have sometime alone especially on my birthday when we went out looking at art galleries, craft shops etc & then out for a nice dinner in the evening. The holiday highlight for me was the Hluhluwi-imfolozi game park where we spent 2 nights and got to see elephants just 20 metres away. AWESOME! This is what I wrote at the time:

5 Jan. Arrived game reserve & saw giraffe, zebra, and warthog next to road & buffalo & various antelope further away on the way to our lodge! The eve game drive added white rhino to the list. The 5am game drive next day resulted in baby white rhino pics & a rhino in mud SO close you couldn't use a zoom lens. As eating breakie, J spotted elephant across the valley and we jumped in the car, abandoning breakie, in search of them. There were 2 in a bush giving tantalising glimpses of ears, tails, and lots of dust as they bathed. Finally, after what seemed like forever, they moved & we got great views of these magnificient creatures.

The rhinos were also amazing, but slightly worrying when we were on a bush walk and ended up down-wind of a white rhino & her young, especially when our guide, Samora, headed us into the bush to circle around and get away from her.

Other great African moments: seeing hippos in St Lucia, a helicopter 'flip' along the coast, seeing Zulu dancers & drummers, and hiking in the Drakensberg mountains. Only traveled in Kwazulu-Natal region so got a great excuse to return to South Africa one day. Cape Town high on to-go-list.

I'm now back in Oman, start a new job Saturday & also on Saturday have to move out of J's when my flat is vacated by my lodger. Going to be a tough week ahead.
Sx

Camping adventure

Turtle sunrise 2, originally uploaded by travelingsuep.

Last weekend was the holiday to celebrate National day for us here in Oman. After having run into an old Nizwa friend, Annette, the previous weekend J & I then joined her and 10 others on a camping trip. Having left Muscat early on Wednesday we met at Mintarib on the edge of the Wahiba Sands aka Sharqiya. Small world, not knowing who was going apart from Annette we saw a friend of J's at the meeting point who was also camping with us. After a briefing from guides, fuelling up, deflating tyres, and toilet stops, six 4x4s, including our guides in the lead vehicle, drove 2 ks down a graded track, pass a camel convoy, and straight into the desert. We very quickly left civilisation behind and had our first cars stuck in the sand soon afterwards.

Having bought a new camera in the summer ready for SA at Christmas I had the perfect excuse to snap away at the dunes, sand, dunes, and more sand... by the end of the weekend the total was 257 photos taken of which I've posted 36 people pics on Facebook and another 20 on my flickr site. The turtle pic above is one of the flickr pics.

We spent all day in the desert driving across to the coast, with everyone, the guides included, being stuck at least once. We set up camp at the end of the sand dunes, overlooking the sea, with a steep slide down to the beach. Very beautiful!!! J & I slid down at daybreak and were lucky enough to watch dolphins very close to shore as the sun rose and we strolled along the beach. Back up at the campsite we had a traditional English breakfast and packed up ready for the second day of the adventure.

Soon after breaking camp we turned down on to the beach: J was not happy about this for HSE reasons, something about getting stuck in soft sand, tides and no exit points; whilst I wasn't happy as I try to act in an environmentally sensitive manner, which driving on beaches certainly is not. That said we had great fun, especially as the guides were like puppies chasing the gulls up into the air - great photos. Along that coast you certainly see the poverty that some Omanis live in. The fishing villages were little more than tin shacks a few meters away from the sea. Young boys ran along shouting to the cars asking for food, which was sad. Also, due to the red tide that has affected Oman the last few weeks, there were dead turtles, dead fish, along with more rubbish than normal, which had been washed ashore.

Back on the hardtop (tarmac road), some of the group played Frisbee on the new road as the guides reinflated tyres, and then it was along the road towards Ras-al-Jinz. One car left us to head back to Muscat, followed soon after by the guides having finished their job. After a few wrong turns and a tea stop, we reached the cliff top overlooking our intended destination. Unfortunately, it was at this point Emily had a tyre blow out on the gravel and when the tyre was changed, and following a text from her boyfriend saying the spare wasn't good, she decided to head back. Almost immediately, another car left on seeing the steep path down to the beach. So then, we were five of us in 2 vehicles.

We set up camp and J laid a huge bonfire; later we sat, chatted, drank, and ate dinner beside it. At the first camp the starlit sky had been amazing as there was no light pollution, but despite nearby towns, at this camp the sky was still beautiful. Jose, as a visitor to Oman got up in the middle of the night to patrol the beach and look for turtles laying their eggs on the beach. The rest of us waited until daybreak and then spent an hour watching the turtle (pic above) finish covering her nest and then return to the sea. Seeing one of these huge majestic creatures in daybreak was magical and so much more rewarding than when we had seen turtles by torchlight, which is not the way you should watch them, as they get disturbed. Then, sadly after breakfast and a quick dip, it was time to head back to Muscat and the adventure was over. Sx

Luxury, petty frustrations, and long drive.

What a strange week. After not getting Renaissance day off work – a national celebration only given to government workers, how does that work, J got given Thursday afternoon off and we went and stayed at the Chedi hotel here in Muscat. Even with it's summer discounted rate it was a luxurious and expensive treat. We got there at midday for the best check in I've ever had. We sat in the beautiful lobby, no standing by the desk, waiters brought us fresh orange juice, the forms etc to where we were sitting, and then we had a mini tour of the hotel on route to our room, which was beautiful! We spent most of the afternoon lounging by the adult only Infiniti pool, although we did take a dip n sea after a short walk along the beach. Dinner was taken in the main dining room with a very smooth red wine, but not so gentle bill, then we took a stroll through the gardens, which are filled with water features, discreet lighting, and surprising courtyards. The next day was equally relaxing with the addition of a Balinese massage before lunch, and check out. The whole thing was a lovely treat!

Petty frustrations came whilst I was working for the week in Nizwa. As usual, I was there with Shell graduates on their introduction to exploration & production course. I train on the first module, which is all about working together, and got so frustrated with two of the girls who did not want to join in anything, stating it is "culturally inappropriate". Our course director, Hannat, along with others, has carefully devised the course so everyone can do everything, and it is such a shame these girls didn't take the opportunities offered them. Ice skating was quoted as being dangerous, an outdoor activity too likely someone would touch them accidentally (10000/1 against) etc. What will they do when they have to work in a mixed environment? Refuse?

The other frustrating thing was receiving an email whilst in Nizwa, with news about my potential flat purchase and realising the Italian bureaucracy is so slow. Also, that despite making requests for things to be done, I am so dependent on others doing what they say they will, when they haven't it has delayed everything. (I'm still waiting for a form to be posted, despite asking for it at the beginning of July) Oh well. I guess I find it so frustrating having flights booked to go over and I may not be able to enter the flat, or start doing anything on it.

However, the highlight of the week, and thing that left me feeling at peace, although tired, was a beautiful drive over the Hajar Mountains. J joined me at the Nizwa Hotel on Tuesday in time to see the raft race, which signified the end of activity day and almost the end of our module. So, yesterday morning, instead of taking the normal drive back to Muscat along the highway, we drove to Wadi Tanuf and off-road up the mountainside on a graded track. After a short while, we joined a stretch of tarmac road, and that led us to the viewpoint (see pic.). Shortly after we were heading downhill on a steep graded track, full of hairpins Yeeha! It was from the viewpoint onwards that the drive was amazing as we passed through, & by, gorges, wadis (valley beds), and small villages. I was very disappointed when we finally reached the end of Wadi Bani Awf and the road to Nakhal that the drive was over, but also pleased and happy we had done it. We got back to Muscat an hour or so later tired but definitely happy, and just in time to see Dark Knight, the new Batman movie.

Want my autograph?

Due to some publicity by my company, I'm in the paper again... both in the article and that's me stood on the left. That makes the tally to date: The Week - 1 letter printed & 2 photos; arabic press - 2 photos; & H! - 1 photo with article (this one). I guess you've either got it, or you haven't :) Sx

Sharp knives, turtles & sinkholes

Having a few days off, I've just visited Sur. Despite it being hot & humid, although less dusty, I thought I'd do some sketching in the town. I like recording decay and seeing a dhow partially submerged, I thought it would be the perfect subject. Sitting on the sand, engrossed I was aware of a man standing over me. Looking up, as I said hello, I saw he had a knife in his hand. Gulp, I wasn't sure if he wanted to rob me, hurt me, or was just curious as he crouched next to me. I'm self conscious drawing with an audience at the best of times, but when they are holding a knife, I could barely contain the shaking. Continuing to draw, trying to chat a little - I've seen on tv that you get hurt less if you can make the event personal - and leave fast was my plan. I feel a bit guilty, as before I packed up, he kindly sharpen my pencil with his knife, so I think he was just curious about a mad English woman sitting drawing outside in the middle of summer.

The evening before, after the drive up from Muscat, my friend and I went to Ras Al Jinz to turtle watch. One of the things on my "to-do before I leave Oman" list. We got there before sunset, if there had been one but it was too dusty/cloudy. We were not allowed onto the beach in case we disturbed the turtles, so we climbed the cliffs overlooking the beach and sat listening & watching the waves crash below. Once back down we had a long wait until 9pm in strong winds, so strong that I almost got cold (the shelters had walls, which weren't high enough to stop the wind howling through). Finally, about 10 of us, with the guide went to the beach, stopping for an explanation on the turtles and what we would see, the group was then made to switch out torches and follow the guide's single beam towards the sea. We got to the first turtle and were joined by about 10 more tourists. The group was too big in my opinion. Justified I think when several flashes went off, phones rang, and one guy slipped into the hole nearly onto the turtle. So much for not disturbing them. The 2nd turtle we saw was laying eggs, which was amazing to see, but I was a bit disturbed the next morning when my photos (taken without flash by the guide's torch) revealed that the guide was holding back the rear flipper so we could see. I thought this turtle watching was supposed to be non-intrusive. Finally, having watched a couple of turtles lumbering up the beach, it was time to leave them in peace.

The next morning, we left Sur after breakie to take the coast road back to Muscat. It's a strange route now being half on the new highway and half on graded (non-tarmac) roads. Taking a detour just before Dibbah, we stopped at a sinkhole. As part of Oman's tourism drive it's now enclosed in a park, and the hole itself is surrounded by a wall and has steps down. Both seem a good idea as the drop is about 20m and the way down shingly. Once at the bottom, we had the pool to ourselves and swam in the amazingly clear salt water, which I think the picture shows. At one point the sandy bottom looked so close I stretched down and realised the bottom was at least another 5 metres below. All too soon, we had to leave and return to Muscat.

Nations united by Pimms drinking

Last night, because it's the summer and the weekend and for no other reason, I had a small get-together at my flat. Several jugs of Pimms were consumed, a few gins & tonics, numerous beers, and some wine. Hic! Why was it a United Nations gathering? Well, we realised that in the room were us Brits, 3 South Africans, my Dutch neighbour, French, Italian ladies, and a new Greek friend complete with Ouzo. Unfortunately, due to the quantity of Pimms drunk, I think, the ouzo was unopened – next time? As usual the only glass that got broken was by yours truly; I did the same when I had the terrace gathering for my mum when she visited. What a klutz.

Choose your Path

Chose your Path, originally uploaded by digitalazia.

Just thought I'd share this photo with you all. It's by the Omani photographer, Ahmed Al-Shukaili (digitalazia on flickr). Amazing this was taken in the train-free Sultanate. It's the tracks of the "tourist train" into Al Hoota cave, now if only we could get a train, underground, tram, or any form of public transport in Muscat.