Good, bad, and slightly dangerous?

I have just spent a long weekend in Lebanon, and it was not long enough. It is an intriguing country full of contradictions. Beirut is an amazing, vibrant city. There are masses of construction going on, but around the corner you will find a building covered in bullet holes or shell marks. The beautiful Al-Amin Mosque (right, from St Georges Orthodox Cathedral) commissioned by former PM Hariri stands only a few kilometres from the former Holiday Inn still baring its ugly war damage from 2006. Furthermore, it stands next to the Cathedral of St Georges Beyruth, Christian & Muslim together. All the Lebanese I met from taxi-drivers to Hezbollah followers seemed genuinely nice people. I know some of you query the latter group. I do not agree with their politics, but I had the opportunity to go to an Hezbollah exhibition in Baalbek. There, the men were friendly, wanted to inform about their perspective, but did not try to force anything on me - oh apart from a nasty tourist hat and flag as gifts. People apart, the contradictions continued with the beautiful countryside ruined by the litter along the sides of the roads. I felt safe whilst there, but was nervous by the checkpoints along the roads manned by soldiers with guns, and some tanks in places. Although, no-one was stopped it was a little worrying. Furthermore, you can see vast wealth and great poverty as you drive around pass summer resorts for the rich Beirutis or pass the Syrian Bedu tents of the migrant workers.

I had a very full weekend, which started off with a walk around Hamra district full of shops and bars, pretty much like any other city of the world. That evening a Lebanese friend C took me to an exclusive rooftop club, where there are tables which cost 3000US$ a night, needless to say we sat at the bar. It was my first time on a guest-list to get in anywhere. As the club has been booked up for the summer we were the guests of the youngest female judge in Beirut who used her influence to get us on the list. The next morning I went to the centre of town, Solidere, for a wander around and was amazed at the number of mosques and churches side-by-side. I tried some of the famous Lebanese food, in the form of a huge slice of cheesecake. YUMM. In the afternoon, I joined C & her friends as we went south of Beirut to a beach resort, Bamboo Bay. All very decadent as we had our own hut, complete with jacuzzi, near the pool and overlooking the sea. The birthday cake, which was topped with fresh Lebanese fruit, was to die for.

The next day I joined a tour to the Bekaa Valley. The first stop was Chateau Ksara for a tour of their caves and then a wine tasting - at 10am!!! Now I like a glass of wine but it was a bit early and so had to pass up the red as being too heavy. I did try the chardonnay & rose first. From there we drove through the valley to Baalbek. WOW!!!! I have seen a lot of ruins over the years but these are impressive! (Left, the entrance) There are not enough superlatives to describe it - you'll just have to go. I am a bit concerned about my mum who was in Lebanon in the early 60s and wrote this in an email last week "I went but don't really remember it apart from a couple of pillars". Oh dear, maybe I should take her back.

From Baalbek it was off to Zahle, for a riverside lunch. Riverside was not the term I would have used as it was more like a very narrow canal/concrete chanel a metre wide with fast flowing water. The sound of the water was nice though. Now, Lebanese food is famous, but I thought being on a tour it would be a mediocre affair. How wrong I was! The mezze to start had the usual hummus, mixed salads, bread, etc., but the quality and freshness was outstanding and I could barely eat another mouthful. Being an almost veggie, I passed on the barbecued meat, but was told it was delicious. Desert was Lebanese fruit and was so nice I forced myself to eat a great quantity of watermelon & melon. Rolling back on the bus it was off to the last stop and Aanjar, an ancient Umayyad site. It was also impressive, but it would have been more so if I'd seen it before Baalbek. It was a bit like going to Brussels after visiting Paris.

Sunday morning, I woke very sad to be leaving, and wished I had more time to explore both Beirut and Lebanon more. I have put them on my To-go-back-to list, very near the top, after all there is so much more to see and do. Hugs & thanks to C for inviting to her country.
Sx

Adding airmiles.

Where does the time go? it's nearing 2 months since my last post. In my defence, I have been away for 3 weeks without my computer. Plus, to steal an idea from another blogger, I blame facebook as with regular status updates it's hard to remember what I've blogged and what I haven't.

Anyway what have I been up to???? Way back in June I had to do a visa run as my wonderful new college still hadn't organised my visa, so I day tripped to Dubai. As I was hoping to get a job back in Europe (I haven't yet), I thought I'd do some tourist things and take some photos. I went to Bur Dubai area and wandered around the old streets, nice car-free alleyways with old style buildings either side, visiting art galleries, the Dubai museum & the souq area. After several hours in the heat, I headed to the Dubai Mall to see the ski-slope in the desert, and to buy a suit. After the usual hassle with Barclaycard blocking my card for use in Dubai, despite them being told every time it's me using the card, I then caught a flight back to Muscat. My pics can viewed on flickr here.

A week later it was off on my holidays. I'd got a cheap flight to Italy via Amsterdam. I arrived there at 5am and headed off by train into Amsterdam for my first visit. With only a morning I aimed to wander around and take pics of the canals and bikes. On flickr Amsterdam's bikes and boats. I found it an interesting place, but apart from wishing to visit the galleries I will not hurry back. I took more photos on the return leg during an evening in Rome of L'arte romana. Not having a map or guidebook, and with the direct trains to Termini cancelled I hopped on a train, and got off where a fellow passenger said there was a tram stop. I was guided by this woman to purchase a tram ticket, and to get on the tram. She said the end was in the centre, and to get off with her, however... As I idly gazed out of the tram window watching the suburbs pass by I saw an interesting church, piazza, and old buildings and jumped off. I wonder if the woman noticed me missing from the tram? I later found out I was in an area called Trastevere, which is south of the river from the centre and unlike Amsterdam I certainly intend to return to. Unfortunately after a lovely evening meandering around, due to my cheap ticket I then joined the masses camped out at Rome airport waiting for a 4am checkin.

In the middle of the traveling, I drove to my flat in Calabria. It is really a pretty area of Italy, as my parents found out when they joined me a few days later. Together we did some tourist stuff, a few beach days, got caught out by a strike by petrol attendants (I was running the hire car on fumes so had a stop in a nice B&B Cirelli in Scalea), but mainly we ate HUGE Italian meals. A highlight for me was

Rifugio Montano escursioni Parco Nazionale del Pollino Orsomarso

which is down the valley from my flat. We went there via a waterfall in the park with 2 friends who live in the area year-round and we all had a great day & meal. Unfortunately during the whole holiday, being the only driver I didn't get to drink to much Prosecco, but have brought a bottle back with me to be opened soon. In fact the time has come to sign off and maybe visit the fridge :D Sx

Charity, diplomats & feathers

I frequently think that my life is boring, very mundane, but recently it's been crazy. The pic to the right was taken at the Italian National Day celebrations held in the ambassador's residence, here in Muscat. In the pic is the ambassador himself, Cesare Capitani, my Italian friends and I. It was a formal affair from the welcoming line up to the singing of both the Omani and Italian national anthems, but executed in true Italian style. Hence the photo with the ambassador.

The evening before I went to a charity catwalk event, in aid of children with cancer. For me a non-shopper and a very casual dresser it was actually fun, AND I bought two new tops (with part of the price also going to the charity).

The night after the abassador's reception I went to Muscat Comedy Club's show 1001 laughs - a comedy show featuring 3 Arab-American comedians. My favorite was Dean Obeidallah, who participates in the "Axis of Evil" show on tv.

To finish off the week, on Thursday a group of us went to the restaurant at the Marina for the first of Maura's leaving meals. We took lots of silly pics, had a lovely meal, lots of wine and laughs. All before heading onto Left Bank for more drinks. We shared a table with a group of Omani male lawyers who were sitting there in their dishdashas and with pints of beer in front of them. Phew what a week!

Oh the feathers, how do they fit in??? Well, the other week I went to the Australia New Zealand Organisation's charity ball, which had the theme of Priscilla Queen of the desert, and saw the majority of people in fancy dress. My friend & I wore glitzy dresses - mine in leopard skin and hers of gold - feather boas and hiking boots. Very glam!!!! Actually it was a relief not to have to totter around in heals all night, especially when dancing.

A boring life??? Maybe I need to have a rethink?

Summer arrives in Oman

I took this pic last Thursday morning at 9.30 as I drove past Mutrah souk. 50c in the sun!!!! I think this will be my last summer here in the middle east as I'm finding it toooooo hot this year. I know last May was the same, but with all that has happened this year I think it's time to head back to Europe.

Beauty of Beduin by Ahmed al-Shukaili

Beauty of Beduin , originally uploaded by digitalazia.

Currently being exhibited as part of I:Woman 2 at Bait Baranda, Muscat.

Muscat musings

Wow it's been ages since I last wrote, I have no idea where the time has gone. So here's a quick update of what's been going on, if I can remember...

I went to UK for Easter week as my new college had a holiday. It was a relief to see dad so well, with little after effects of the strokes. He is so lucky. He told me by phone yesterday that he know longer needs to see the consultant, so it really is good news. It was nice being back in the UK and seeing the spring flowers and to experience nice spring weather, complete with showers. I spent most of the week doing nothing, I think as a result of the stressful 3 months preceding it. However, I did see Carole, who I miss a lot, and is always the first person I catch up with.

Returning from UK I was expecting to have a firm offer for a training job here in Muscat, I was supposed to receive details by 15th. But despite calling, sending emails and sms the company never got back to me... not even after I spoke to the GM who said he was in a meeting and would call me back, but never called. How rude is that? If they had decided not to recruit anyone, or not to recruit me, that would've been fine as long as they had told me. Ok rant over.

What else? Went to a conference with my colleagues on EFL teaching, which was very inspiring. Unfortunately not to teach, but to start studying again myself as I got several ideas for my PhD topic, however as I have a mortgage and renovations to do to flat I guess I can't afford it. Although maybe I could do a diploma or something?

I've done a few cultural things including 2 exhibitions currently running here in Muscat, however was unable to see a touring exhibition from Dubai that included a Picasso as it was only on for 2 days mid-week and I couldn't get there due to work. Yesterday, I saw the exhibition I:Woman and a friend of mine, Ahmed al-Shukaili, had some of his photos exhibited. Some friends and I went to the newly renovated Al Bustan Palace to listen to the Royal Oman Symphony Orchestra play a Spanish inspired musical programme. The orchestra has improved a great deal, and it was a real pleasure to hear them. Afterwards we went to the beach bar to chill out and chat under in th moonlight.

Finally, I stopped drinking before flying to UK as I've been feeling so lousy (non-specific blahness) to see if my health improved. After four weeks abstinence from alcohol, I wasn't feeling any better so I shared a bottle of very nice Prosecco with good friends, had a nice meal and helped a friend celebrate her completion of her master's. Then, I felt better! As another friend had suggested, it's the first drink which makes you feel healthier :D

Detoxing & de-friending?

After writing my last blog I thought I really must detox, so naturally I spent that evening eating up the crisps & biscuits in my house. After all, they don't sit quietly in the cupboard and the only way I can cut them out from my diet, is not to have them in the house, and throwing them out is just wasteful! Obviously, J has to be cut out too, I know that, but my head has never ruled my heart where he is concerned. Just for a while, as I do not want to lose him as a friend because he is a lovely person, but I must regain perspective and hopefully some sense as far as he's concerned. I need to regain me instead of being part of an "us".

On another track, what a strange life I lead. Why do I say that? Well, I need to renew my passport, not because it's expiring, but because I'm almost out of pages. So today I was looking through the form and I need someone to co-sign, and that someone has to be a British citizen and has known me over two years. Therein lays the problem. Now, many of my friends are Italian, Australian, French etc and those that are British either are not currently around Muscat or have not known me two years. It doesn't take much to realise how transitory friends & acquaintances are in the expat world. People who come into our lives, share a portion of it, then move on, are the norm. Those people may or may not keep contact with us, especially with social devices like facebook at our disposal.

Like detoxing the body of excesses of modern life, do us expats need &/or want to keep in touch with these people? Once you move to a new country or even continent is it expedient to keep contact? Now, facebook & sites like it in some ways are a get-out as you can keep people in your friend's list, you can kid yourself you are still in contact, but really is sending a "hi" via their wall keeping in touch? Isn't it more honest to de-friend these people who you will never meet again? Obviously, for those of you who do not frequent the expat world you do not have this same problem of transitory friends, however what about that couple you met on holiday 10 years ago and send a Christmas card to? Or worse, there's that spotty guy from junior school who contacted you through Friends Reunited that you had and have nothing in common? Do you really need/want these people in your life? Will I be going through my facebook friend list or my email contacts and de-friending ex-friends? NO, because I hope one day someone will decide to get on a plane to revisit this old friend, or invite me to see them, or just reminisce about past times. Sentimental? Maybe, but I hope you my friends will continue to keep in touch even when time and distance physically parts us.